Parlour Acoustic - fret installation and neck shaping

In its current state, the strings will reach the bridge at 13mm from the soundboard, so here I'm just tweaking the angle of the fingerboard.  A figure just below 12mm will future proof the guitar from any future  up-bow in the neck that may result from string pressure as well as providing optimum action and tone.

Next job is to radius the fingerboard. I use a block plane to achieve the desired shape at both ends then join then up using a scraper plane and a sanding block, referencing from my straight edge.

Below you can see the end of the fingerboard in silhouette, note the radius I've  created.  At this point also, I add some initial relief to the fingerboard.  Following the trial string I'll be able to judge the natural position of the neck and then add the perfect relief to the frets for a super action.

As soon as I'm happy with the fingerboard camber, I run through grits 150, 240, 320 and 400 with a soft sanding block.  Next I cut enough frets to match the slots and nip the tangs so that there's not too much waste overhanging the fingerboard edge.

Installing the frets past the join is tricky, i don't want to use the hammer because I'll be exerting too large a shock on the sound board which is only 3.1mm thick at this point.  I use a clamp here.

After the join  I use the traditional method of the fretting hammer, spilled tea and sore finger tips :)

(note its  an unusual 13 fret join rather than the 12 of a small bodied guitar or the 14 fret join of most guitars.  The extra fret access at this position aids playing access but also allows me to move the soundhole position into a slightly more responsive area of the Sitka sound board. I cant wait to string it up!)

After trimming the edges of the frets to the fingerboard, I use a 400 grit diamond stone to get the  fret edges flush and smooth.  Later when I dress the frets, there'll not be a sharp edge in sight.